A Fully Dispersive Nonlinear Numerical Wave Model

• 1、Hohai University

Abstract：In this dissertation, a unified new wave model is established, and the corresponding solution method is given, based on the fully dispersive nonlinear wave propagation equation developed by HONG Guangwen. This new model includes linear and nonlinear modes, is suitable for both deep and shallow water, permits slow change of current field, topography and water elevation, and can be used in open and complex geographical coastal water area. The results are verified from deep to extremely shallow water conditions. The shoaling waves, standing waves, 3D disturbance waves, tidal waves and solitude waves are simulated and verified，and waves over an underwater bar，the diffraction near single breakwater, breakwater gap, offshore breakwater, Breakhoff experiment are taken into account in this model. Furthermore, the wave harbor resonance under special topography, and “Bragg” resonance are simulated. The wave refraction problem under current fields，the nonlinear wave refraction-diffraction under “Arthur” current field, and the wave propagation under slowly varying current field are studied. The favorable calibrations show the model’s feasibility in dealing with the wave nonlinearity and simulation in both deep and shallow water.

Keywords： nonlinearity；dispersion；wave numerical simulation；wave-current interaction；wave resonance