The Princeton Ocean Model (POM) is widely used in both the research and real-time marine forecast communities. However, there is a single heavily criticized feature and shortcoming of POM, i.e., the pressure gradient (PG) error associated with sloping topography. To overcome this problem, in this paper we present an eta-coordinate POM (ECPOM). The eta-coordinate system was originally adopted in atmospheric numerical models and has proved to be effective in removing the large errors associated with the horizontal pressure gradient force and advection and diffusion terms along a steeply sloping topography. A familiar idealized seamount problem is used to test the PG error in the ECPOM in order to isolate errors from other sources, as is done in the literature. The model is set up so that, ideally, the ocean should be at rest forever; any development of circulation is regarded as numerically artificial. Results show that in ECPOM, errors are dramatically reduced by two orders of magnitude over a wide range of parameters. As a trade-off, the bottom boundary of the ECPOM is a stepwise instead of a continuous one, as in the sigma-coordinate POM (SCPOM). Modification of the SCPOM to the ECPOM is straightforward and minimal. Compared to the z-coordinate model, the ECPOM is numerically simpler since the eta-coordinate has a surface-followlng character.

基于交叉谱矩阵可以按本征值划分为信号和含有噪音部分的思想，提出了一种自直接测量数据估计海浪方向谱的方法。该方法称为扩展本征矢方法（EEV），可应用于单点测量系统、仪器阵列以及由二者构成的复合阵列。现有的某些估计方法（如最大似然方法及其扩展形式等）仅是此方法的某种特例。

基于Longuet-Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。

采用低频分谱和高频分谱叠加的思想，提出了双峰海浪频谱的一种表示。所用的分谱形式为以便十确定的物理量为参数的Neumann型谱形。给出了山实测双峰谱的特征量确定分谱参数的合理途径，解释了以往双峰谱表示中高频部分过高估计的原因并予以解决，最后应用于胶州湾和南海西沙海域的实测谱。

Based upon the nonlinear model of random sea waves, the statistical distribution of wave surface elevation exact to the fourth order is derived as the truncated Gram-Charlier series, by calculating directly each order moment. The phenomenon found by Huang et al. that the agreement between observed data and investigated series deteriorates much more when the series is kept to λ8 is explained, The effect of the appmximation order on the truncation of series and the determination of coefficients is investigated. For the mth order approximation, the derived series is truncated at H3m-3 with the absence of H3m-4, and the coefficients of H3m-3 and H3m-6 are connected by a simple algebraic relation.