By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with sheltering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of sheltering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag co-efficient are applied to determine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are tnade.

Combining the logarithmic law with the Charnock relation yields a drag coefficient that is a function of wind speed with the Charnock coefficient as a parameter. It is found that the function is nearly linear within the typically measured range of the drag coefficient. The slope of the linear function is dominated by the Charnock coefficient. When the Charnock relation is extended to a wave age-dependent function, the drag coefficient remains a near-linear function of wind speed after invoking the 3/2 power law. The slope of the linear function is dominated by wave steepness.

采用低频分谱和高频分谱叠加的思想，提出了双峰海浪频谱的一种表示。所用的分谱形式为以便十确定的物理量为参数的Neumann型谱形。给出了山实测双峰谱的特征量确定分谱参数的合理途径，解释了以往双峰谱表示中高频部分过高估计的原因并予以解决，最后应用于胶州湾和南海西沙海域的实测谱。

The Princeton Ocean Model (POM) is widely used in both the research and real-time marine forecast communities. However, there is a single heavily criticized feature and shortcoming of POM, i.e., the pressure gradient (PG) error associated with sloping topography. To overcome this problem, in this paper we present an eta-coordinate POM (ECPOM). The eta-coordinate system was originally adopted in atmospheric numerical models and has proved to be effective in removing the large errors associated with the horizontal pressure gradient force and advection and diffusion terms along a steeply sloping topography. A familiar idealized seamount problem is used to test the PG error in the ECPOM in order to isolate errors from other sources, as is done in the literature. The model is set up so that, ideally, the ocean should be at rest forever; any development of circulation is regarded as numerically artificial. Results show that in ECPOM, errors are dramatically reduced by two orders of magnitude over a wide range of parameters. As a trade-off, the bottom boundary of the ECPOM is a stepwise instead of a continuous one, as in the sigma-coordinate POM (SCPOM). Modification of the SCPOM to the ECPOM is straightforward and minimal. Compared to the z-coordinate model, the ECPOM is numerically simpler since the eta-coordinate has a surface-followlng character.

In this paper the WAM model is improved by considering the radiation stresses due to wave-current interactions in the spectral transport equation. The improved wave model is applied to compute wind waves in the Rhone river mouth area in the Southern France under various steady and homogeneous wind conditions. The aim of this study is to determine the wave conditions involved in the long-term evolution of the shoreline. From the numerical computation results, we can conclude that even for obliquely offshore wind conditions, alongshore waves exist in nearshore area and that the current due to the Rhone discharge has very little effect on the wave characteristics in relatively deep water.