This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data.

基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型，模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应，应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散，采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布，考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好, 比较分析表明, 所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大，可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。

The vertically dependent expressions of obliquely incident waves induced radiation stress are derived by use of the second order Stoke5 wave theory within three reglotm of the water colurrm, that is above the mean water levd, below the wave trough levdi, rout between these two levels. Computations radiate that the wave-induced radiation stris below the wave trough level is from the water wave particle velocity only, whereas both the water wave particle velocity and the wave presstrre contribute to the mnr above the wave troughlevel; the vertical variations of the wave-induced radiation stress influenced suhstantiaUy by the velocity component in the direction of wave propagation; the distributions of the wave-induced radiation stresss texor over depth are non-uniform and the proportion of the tensor below the wave trough levl becomes considerable in the shallow water; form water suface to seabed, the reversed variations occur for the predominant tensor components.

Seawalls are commonly used as a tool for coastal defence worldwide. Most previous studies have considered the case of vertical seawalls and descriptions of existing seawalls, rather than the influence of different designs of sloping seawalls on beach erosion. In this study, laboratory investigations of an undistorted moveable bed model were conducted to determine the resulting beach profile of artificial sandy beaches. In the experiments, three different sloping seawalls were considered under erosive wave conditions with a 50-year return period. The coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China, is used as a case study. To simulate natural conditions, similarity criteria are developed assuming that the energy dissipation per unit volume along the beach profile is uniform and that the wave properties can be properly scaled by Froude criteria. Field surveys of beach profile changes due to the storm surge induced by Typhoon 9711 were taken to validate the experimental model and good agreements were attained. Spatial profile configurations were studied by examining dominant profile features such as the break point bar and the scour trough on the seawall-backed profiles. Experimental results provided a reference for the maintenance of artificial sandy beaches and the design of seawalls on the coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China.

curvilinear coordinate was developed and the engineering sedimentation method was used to study the possible impact of the coastal reclamation project of Mazucheng in the Meizhou Bay upon the tidal motion and the sediment siltation intensity in the vicinal sea area. The momentum equations were rewritten in the Lagrangian form and the convection term in the momentum equations was discretised by the Eulerian-Lagrangian method instead of the explicit upwind finite differences. The improved Double-Sweep-Implicit method was used to improve the computational stability and accuracy. Three comparative cases were studied on the basis of the satisfactory model verifications with field data. Computations show that the maximum change of tidal discharge would be smaller than 0.8% of that of the whole Meizhou Bay, indicating that the change of the situation of shoals and channels in the Meizhou Bay would be small. Based on numerical computations an optimum layout of the coastal reclamation project was recommended. For the recommended scheme, comparisons of the velocity field before and after the project revealed that there were a bit of changes in the vicinity of the project; the annual siltation intensity was smaller than 0.08m nearby the project site while that was smaller than 0.003m at the locations of main harbours and the navigation channel.