基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型，模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应，应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散，采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布，考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好, 比较分析表明, 所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大，可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。

Seawalls are commonly used as a tool for coastal defence worldwide. Most previous studies have considered the case of vertical seawalls and descriptions of existing seawalls, rather than the influence of different designs of sloping seawalls on beach erosion. In this study, laboratory investigations of an undistorted moveable bed model were conducted to determine the resulting beach profile of artificial sandy beaches. In the experiments, three different sloping seawalls were considered under erosive wave conditions with a 50-year return period. The coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China, is used as a case study. To simulate natural conditions, similarity criteria are developed assuming that the energy dissipation per unit volume along the beach profile is uniform and that the wave properties can be properly scaled by Froude criteria. Field surveys of beach profile changes due to the storm surge induced by Typhoon 9711 were taken to validate the experimental model and good agreements were attained. Spatial profile configurations were studied by examining dominant profile features such as the break point bar and the scour trough on the seawall-backed profiles. Experimental results provided a reference for the maintenance of artificial sandy beaches and the design of seawalls on the coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China.

本文应用SPH 数值逼近方法离散NS方程，建立了二维水动力数值模型。自由表面施加Dirichlet条件，固边界采用固定壁粒子，镜像粒子施加完全滑移条件，压力采用状态方程计算。提出了内外单元粒子搜索技术，计算效率较传统的DSM和Mihai方法有显著提高，对粒子数量超大的情况也有良好的表现。采用溃坝算例验证模型的可靠性。